Tuesday 19 July 2016

Nea Oitylo, Mani, Greece, July 2016 - A Nicer and Cleaner Greece

I’ve been coming to Greece regularly since 2003.  This time I sensed quite quickly that something had changed.   But I couldn't put my finger on it.  Not until lunchtime on my second day did I realise what it was.  As I sat eating a plate of mixed fried fish, squid and octopus by the little harbour in Palaia Epidavros in the Peloponnese I noticed a middle-aged woman at the next table smoking a cigarette.  And I then realised what was different – she was the first person I had seen smoking in 24 hours. 

And it wasn’t until the next day that I saw two people smoking together – and they turned out to be American college students. 

Since then I have seen a number of smokers – but many fewer than I have been accustomed to seeing.  Has Greece suddenly changed?

In the early 2000s Eurbarometer survey data showed that Greece had the unenviable position as the smoking capital of the European Union – and beaten only by Serbia in an all-European league-table. I remember one particular statistic – that 34 % of adult women smoked.  Actually, at one time it seemed to be almost compulsory for middle-aged middle-class women to smoke.  That certainly appeared to be the case in one of the bigger cities that I visited regularly. As recently as 2011 the World Health Organisation reported that Greek women were the heaviest smokers in the world.

In 2010 the government introduced a smoking ban in restaurants and bars – and then quietly but quickly announced that it would not be enforced in the face of pressure from bar owners and restaurateurs who swore that the ban would drastically reduce their clientele at a time when business was already suffering.  I have sat under the ‘no smoking’ signs in good restaurants while almost everyone around me has been piling up the butts in an ash tray.

So what has happened?  I have been touring the southern Peloponnese for some days and the impression has certainly strengthened that smoking rates are down.  But is this a factor of geography – with lower smoking rates in rural areas than in, say, Athens?  Or is it a function of the heat, with temperatures over the last few days being in the mid to high 30s?   (I remember a friend telling me once about touring the same area by car in temperatures of over 40 degrees and being held up by an advancing forest fire at which point other drivers lit up cigarettes – and threw the matches away into the already tinder-dry bush.)  Perhaps it’s a function of Greece’s period of austerity, with people unable to afford cigarettes – although observation elsewhere suggests that smoking is one of the last things to be given up.  Or, perhaps, just perhaps, all the public health campaigning is working. 

A bit of research suggests that my first impressions were actually correct.  Greece’s smoking rates ARE dropping rapidly and significantly. Indeed I am amazed how fast.  In 2008 Greek adults smoked an average of 3055 cigarettes per year.  By 2014, according to World Health Organisation data, that had dropped to 2086 – a reduction of almost exactly one third in only 6 years.  And Greece has now fallen down the league table of European smokers, now headed by Montenegro, with Belarus, Macedonia (sorry to any Greek readers – regard that as being the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia), Russia, Slovenia, Belgium, Luxembourg, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the Czech Republic following.  But Greece still has a long way to go to get down to Iceland and Norway’s cigarette consumption, at 551 and 556 cigarettes per adult per year respectively. The 2014 data put the UK as having the third lowest European consumption, at 827. 


With the reduction in smoking, Greece is an even nicer place to be than it was before.  The air is clearer in bars and restaurants - and hotel rooms don't reek of the tobacco habits of previous guests.  But I haven’t found any recent data on gendered changes in consumption.  That first smoker I had noticed in Palaia Epidavros was a woman.  And at breakfast yesterday on the terrace of my hotel in Nea Oitylo in the Mani three out of the four at the next table each smoked one cigarette, but it was a woman in her 30s who smoked five.